专利摘要:
Capillary cleaning agents containing anionic surfactants, a blend of specific oils, a cationic guar polymer and an amidoamine, suitable for cleaning and treating hair without build-up effect, in particular for improving gloss and feeling to the touch hair.
公开号:FR3078254A1
申请号:FR1901546
申请日:2019-02-15
公开日:2019-08-30
发明作者:Thomas Schröder;Sören Scheele;Manuela Mette
申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

Description
Title of the invention: Hair care shampoo The present patent application describes cosmetic cleaning agents based on anionic surfactants and a combination of caring active ingredients comprising a mixture of specific oil, polymers of cationic guar and amidoamines.
The application further describes the use of these agents to improve the hair care properties.
By using cosmetic cleaning agents (shampoos), the hair and scalp can be cleaned and rid of sebum, styling residue and other impurities.
Due to the surfactants (mainly anionic) generally contained in cosmetic cleansing agents for the hair, cleaning the hair always results in the elimination of lipids and proteins from the hair or the scalp, which causes damage to the hair structure and / or dehydration of the scalp, especially in case of frequent cleaning.
The damage caused to the structure of the hair or to the hair fibers, in particular split ends and / or breakage of the hair, can also be favored by environmental phenomena (such as intense sunlight), mechanical stresses. (combing with a hair dryer, for example) as well as chemical actions (coloring, deformation or straightening of the hair).
[0006] In order to prevent and / or reduce damage to the hair, various nutrients such as cationic care polymers, mineral or vegetable oils and / or silicones have been added to shampoos in the past. This has resulted in a significant improvement in the care properties such as the ease of styling and the feeling to the touch of the hair, and this from the first application.
However, drawbacks appear when used regularly for a long time. Thus, the regular deposition of larger quantities of oil from the care shampoos on the hair guarantees the aforementioned conditioning advantages, but at the same time - in particular after a regular application on fine and / or damaged hair - one can observe a certain amount of -conditioning, which gives the hair a greasy and heavy appearance. Overall, the hair therefore has a neglected and unattractive appearance.
Another disadvantage is that the larger amounts of oil in the shampoos must be stabilized in a complex manner by incorporating additional adjuvants, such as special thickening polymers and / or alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers, and generally lead to formulations. milky and cloudy.
Due to the increasing number of intolerances, consumers want to have less complex cosmetic agents containing a high proportion of active ingredients and adjuvants of natural origin, which are easily degradable.
For the consumer, this is synonymous with transparent formulations.
The partial or total abandonment of oils in shampoos in favor of other care substances, such as cationic care substances, causes an undesirable hair loss and does not provide a solution to the above problem.
The present application therefore aimed to provide a hair cleaning agent offering good care performance, which ensures an optimal balance between gentle and deep cleaning, prolonged and lasting care and good compatibility. In order to avoid the effects of overconditioning described, it is ideal to abandon the use of large quantities of oil, in particular the use of silicones or mineral oils.
Another objective was to provide transparent hair care shampoos. It has been found that by combining anionic surfactants with a mixture of active principles caring for cationic guar polymers, specific amidoamines and small amounts of a specific mixture of oil, it was possible to provide hair care shampoos with excellent cleansing and caring effects. Hair care shampoos are very well tolerated by the skin and, even with regular use, do not cause a build-up effect.
We can therefore abandon the use of non-ionic polymeric or alkoxylated stabilizers for the production and storage of shampoos, and thus provide compositions with high transparency.
In particular, the use of agents can improve the shine, the volume, the feeling to the touch and the softness of the hair.
A first object of the present application is therefore a hair cleaning agent which contains [0018] a) at least one anionic surfactant, [b] a mixture of oils containing [0020] i. at least one mono- and / or diester of glycerol and a saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid, branched or unbranched, having 18 to 30 carbon atoms, and [0021] ii. at least one vegetable oil, [0022] c) at least one cationic guar polymer and [0023] d) at least one amidoamine of formula (I), [0024] [Chem.l] r 2
o [0026] [0027] [0028] [0029] [0030] [0031] [0032] [0033] [0034] in which
RI represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl (or alkenyl) radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms,
R2 and R3 represent, independently of one another, hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and x represents an integer in the range from 2 to 6.
The particularly preferred hair cleansing agents contain, in accordance with a first preferred embodiment, (relative to the weight of the entire agent)
- 4.00 to 25.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant a),
- 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one mono- and / or diester b) i.,
- 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one vegetable oil b) ii.,
- 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one cationic guar polymer c),
- 0.01 to 2.00% by weight of at least one amidoamine d) of formula (I).
The hair cleaning agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients a) to d), preferably in an acceptable cosmetic carrier. By this is preferably meant, within the framework of the invention, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic support.
The cosmetic support preferably contains at least 75% by weight, more preferably at least 77% by weight, particularly preferably at least 78% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of water.
The cosmetic support can also contain from 0.50 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 9% by weight and in particular from 1.00 to 6% by weight of at least one alcohol.
Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyldiglycol, propane-1-ol, propan-2-ol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, butane-1-ol, butane-2-ol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, pentanel-ol, pentane-2-ol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5 -pentanediol, hexane-1-ol, hexane-2-ol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycolene, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
Polyols are particularly preferred, since it has been discovered that they can contribute more to the care effect of the active principle complex according to the invention without harming the foaming properties of the agents. In addition, a certain polyol content contributes to better solubilization of the mixture of specific oils in hair cleaning agents, so that there is no need entirely for polymeric stabilizers and / or alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers.
A particularly preferred polyol is glycerol, which can be used in the agents according to the invention in the amounts mentioned above.
A first essential component of the mixture of caring active principles in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention is a mono- and / or diester b) i., Chosen from mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and acids unsaturated carboxyls having 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
Preferred are the mono- and / or diesters b) i., Which can be very well dissolved and / or solubilized without polymeric and / or alkoxylated nonionic adjuvants in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, so as to ability to obtain clear formulations.
Particularly suitable are the mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and petroselinic acid, oleic acid, gadoleic acid, gondoic acid, ketoleic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid. and linolenic acid because they are also based on natural (plant) resources and are easily biodegradable.
A mono- and / or diester of glycerol and oleic acid (INCI name: Glyceryl Oleate) is particularly preferred, because these esters have excellent moisturizing properties and improve the styling possibilities and the feeling to the touch of the hair. .
The mono- and / or diester of glycerol and the unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 18 to 24 carbon atoms b) i. is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to the weight of the entire agent) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 3.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.40 to 2.00% by weight and in particular from 0.50 to 1.00% by weight.
In a preferred embodiment, a mono- and / or a diester of glycerol and oleic acid (designation INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is used in the abovementioned amounts in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention.
A second essential component of the mixture of active care principles in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention is a vegetable oil.
Examples of suitable oils that may be mentioned include amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil. babassu, cottonseed oil, borage oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seeds, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower oil, currant seed oil, oil jojoba, cocoa butter, coconut oil, squash seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, carrot oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, oil palm kernel, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, Sacha inchi oil, oil e of safflower, sea buckthorn berry pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, oil sunflower, tea tree oil, grape seed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowsweet oil and / or oil of wild rose.
Preferred amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, olive oil are preferred. almond, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil and / or jojoba oil.
It has been discovered that vegetable oils - also used in low concentrations - in combination with the esters b) i. guarantee the aforementioned conditioning benefits on the hair without accumulating effect when used regularly. In addition, it has been observed that thanks to a combination of the two oils b) i. and ii. in the mixture of active principles for caring for the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, the antistatic properties and the shine of the treated hair has / have been able to be considerably improved.
The vegetable oil or oils b) ii. is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to the weight of the whole of the agent) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 0.80% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 0.60% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.04 to 0.40% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 0.20% by weight.
A third essential component of the mixture of active care principles in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention is a cationic guar polymer c). The appropriate cationic guar polymers are obtained from natural resources and give the hair a soft feeling. In the mixture of active principles for caring for the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, they also promote the deposition of oils on the hair without harming the volume of the hair.
By suitable cationic guar polymers c) is meant in the context of the present invention, physiologically compatible cationic guar derivatives and / or hydrophobically modified cationic guar derivatives.
Preferred are cationic hydroxy guar (Ci-C 4 ) alkyl derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar having average molecular weights (weight average) from 100,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, preferably 200,000 to 1,750,000 daltons and in particular 300,000 to 1,600,000 daltons. Also preferred are cationic alkyl hydroxy (Ci-C 4 ) guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar, with cationic charge densities of at least 0.5 meq / g.
Particularly preferred are the cationic guar polymers known under the name INCI “Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorid” having a molecular weight (weight average) ranging from 100,000 to 2,000,000 daltons, preferably from 200,000 to 1,750,000 daltons and in particular from 300,000 to 1,600,000 daltons, and a cationic charge density of at least 0.5 meq / g.
Appropriate cationic guar polymers c) are sold, for example, under the brand names "Jaguar®" or "N-Hance®" by various suppliers.
Particularly suitable cationic guar polymers c) are: Jaguar® C13S, Jaguar® C 162, Jaguar® C14S, Jaguar® C17, Jaguar® Excel, N-Hance® 3196 and / or N-Hance® 3215.
The hair cleaning agents according to the invention contain the cationic guar polymer (s) (c) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1.00% by weight, so more preferably from 0.02 to 0.90% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 0.75% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.04 to 0.60% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 0.50% by weight, the quantities expressed relate to the total weight of the hair cleaning agent.
A fourth essential component of the mixture of active care principles in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention is an amidoamine of formula (I), [Chem.2]
R 2
O in which R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl (or alkenyl) radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 and R 3 represent, independently one each other, hydrogen or alkyl to C 4, and [0059] x represents an integer in the range of 2 to 6.
The amidoamines d) of formula (I) give the hair a very soft and supple feeling to the touch, without weighing it down. We have discovered in particular that amidoamines
d) having an alkyl (alkenyl) radical (RJ having more than 19 carbon atoms facilitate styling and are more suitable than the amidoamines commonly used in the prior art (alkyl (alkenyl) radical with <18 carbon atoms) , to prevent a build-up effect.
Amidoamines d) which are particularly suitable are therefore those corresponding to formula (I), in which
Ri represents an alkenyl radical having from 20 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R 2 and R 3 represent methyl groups, and
- x represents the numbers 2, 3 or 4.
The amidoamines which are particularly preferred for use in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention are the amidoamines d) corresponding to the formula (I) chosen from the amidoamines known under the names INCI Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
These amidoamines are sold by various suppliers and are particularly suitable for use in the agents according to the invention; Examples include Kerabase® LC from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients, ProCondition® 22 from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients and / or Amidet® APA-22 from Kao Corporation.
Amidoamine or amidoamines is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to the weight of the entire agent) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 1.50% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.20 to 1.25% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 1.00% by weight.
For very good skin tolerance (at the scalp) of the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, it is advantageous that they have a slightly acidic pH.
It has been discovered that the hair cleaning agents according to the invention having a pH in the range of 4.0 to 6.0 were very mild and had particularly good skin tolerance.
In another preferred embodiment, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention therefore have a pH in the range from 4.0 to 6.0, more preferably from 4.2 to 5.9, and particularly preferably from 4.5 to 5.8.
The softness and foaming properties of the hair cleaning agents according to the invention can to a certain extent be controlled by the rigorous selection of the amounts of surfactants and / or of the types of surfactants.
The hair cleaning agents according to the invention contain at least one anionic surfactant a) which is essential for producing satisfactory amounts of foam and imparting satisfactory foaming properties. In order to obtain an optimal balance between the softness and the foaming properties of the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant a) has been discovered with at least one mild co-surfactant, which can be preferably chosen from amphoteric and / or zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants.
In a particularly preferred manner, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention contain, in addition to at least one anionic surfactant a) (relative to the weight of the whole of the agent)
- 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant and / or
- 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant.
The suitable types of anionic surfactants a) which can be used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention include, for example:
- linear and branched fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), - etheric carboxylic acids of formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) X -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, the acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group ( sarcosinate surfactants), - acyltaurates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group (taurate surfactants), - acylisethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group (isethionate surfactants), - the mono- and / or dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and the sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups (sulfosuccinate surfactants), - the alpha-olefin sulfonates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms (alpha-olefin sulfonate surfactants), the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of formula R- (OCH 2 -CH 2 ) n -O-SO 3 X, in which R preferably represents an alkyl group with a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x represents the number 0 or a number from 1 to 12 and X represents an alkaline, alkaline-earth ion , ammonium or alkanolamine, the sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, the esters of tartaric acid and of citric acid with alcohols representing adducts of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or [0082] - the phosphates d alkyl and / or alkenyl ether of the formula [Chem.3]
O
II R- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n —O —P — OR
OX in which R 1 preferably represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 represents hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH2O) nR 1 or X, n represents numbers ranging from 0 to 10 and X represents hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or the group -NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 representing, independently of each other, a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
Particularly preferred are alkyl sulphates and / or alkyl ether sulphate salts, ether carboxylic acids, isethionates, taurates and / or alphaolefin sulphonates, in particular alkyl sulphates and / or alkyl ether sulphate salts.
The anionic surfactant (s) a) is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to the weight of the whole of the agent) preferably in an amount ranging from 4.00 to 25.00% by weight, more preferably from 5.00 to 20.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 5.50 to 17.50% by weight, most preferably particularly preferred from 6.00 to 15.00% by weight and in particular from 6.50 to 12.50% by weight.
In a preferred embodiment, in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, an anionic surfactant is used a) at least one alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salt, an ether carboxylic acid, an isethionate , a taurate and / or an alpha-olefin sulfonate, in particular an alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salt, in the abovementioned amounts.
Among the types of suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, there are for example one or more compounds of the following formulas (i) to (vii). In this formula, the radical R preferably represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical with a straight or branched chain, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (i) and (ii)) or represents an alkyl radical or straight or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated chain alkenyl having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (iii) to (vii)):
[Chem. 4]
H, C 3 x + ch 3 HX CH. 3 + · 3 , / SO ..Rv. " coo (I)(Ii) H, C CH 3 v-o 3 A .n / ^ coo ’ H Η.χ CH, i · γ - x-α N Yx. γο; (III) o(Iv) H HH HV ' NOTI coo V '^ XXx ' N +>X> X 'COOo1 OH <") o SOH (Vi) H H R. -N, Y / x coo Y NOTI oΊ. coo (vll)
The preferred amphoteric surfactants of formulas (i) to (vii) mentioned above contain, as radical R, mainly an alkyl radical with straight or branched chain, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, having 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 18 and in particular 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
The amphoteric surfactants b) which are particularly preferred are those in which the radical R is derived from coconut fat.
The most particularly preferred surfactants are the amphoteric surfactants known by the names INCI Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionyl or Lauro Cocoamphodipropionate or Cocoamphodipropionyl, multiple suppliers.
Surfactants whose INCI names are Cocamidopropylbetain, Lauramidopropylbetain, Cocoampho (di) acetate and / or Lauroapho (di) acetate are particularly preferred.
The amphoteric and / or zwitterionic cosurfactant (s) is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to their total weight) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.10 to 5, 00% by weight, more preferably from 0.50 to 5.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.00 to 5.00% by weight and in particular from 2.00 to 5.00% by weight .
The anionic surfactants a) which are particularly preferred within the meaning of the present invention are alkyl (ether) sulphates, because of their excellent foaming properties. To increase softness, these are preferably combined with cocamidopropyl betaine and / or cocoampho (di) acetate as a cosurfactant.
For some modes of application - for example, for cleaning and caring for very damaged hair and / or very fine hair and / or hair for babies or very young children - it may be advantageous not to use sulfated surfactants.
However, the fact of renouncing sulfated surfactants often results in a considerable deterioration of the properties of the foam (quantity and quality), which makes the choice of suitable surfactants very tedious. The incorporation of oil-based nutrients in hair cleansing agents also has a negative impact on the stability, viscosity and foaming properties of the agents.
It has been discovered that nourishing hair cleaning agents with good foaming properties and a remarkable care potential can be prepared when the anionic surfactant base without sulfate a) comprises at least one surfactant chosen from the group of anionic taurate surfactants and / or isethionate surfactants and / or alpha-olefin sulfonate surfactants. Preferably, at least one of these surfactants is combined with cocamidopropyl betaine and / or cocoampho (di) acetate as a co-surfactant.
The nonionic surfactants suitable for use as a cosurfactant are for example [0101] - the amine oxides which can be chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) or (II) [0102] [Chem.5 ]
h 3 c · ch 3 (II), in which R represents respectively an alkyl or alkenyl radical with a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated chain having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
Particularly preferred are the surfactants of the above-mentioned formula (I) or (II) known under the names INCI Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and / or Cocamidopropylaminoxid and sold by various suppliers.
[0105] - the fatty acid alkanolamides of the following general formula, [Chem. 6] ο
He / R '
R— u —Nf
R '[0107] in which R preferably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the radicals R' represent hydrogen or the group - (CH 2 ) n OH , in which n represents the number 2 or 3, provided that at least one of the radicals R 'represents the abovementioned radical (CH 2 ) n OH, [0108] - mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glycosides and alcohols bold, for example the product
Montanov®68 commercially available, [0109] - sterols. By sterols is meant a group of steroids which support a hydroxyl group at the carbon atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated from animal tissues (zoosterols) as from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, specifically mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.
- the phospholipids. Among them is meant in particular the glucose phospholipids which are, for example, extracted as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example, from egg yolks or from vegetable seeds (for example soybeans).
Alkyl (oligo) glycosides, Suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides can be chosen from the compounds of the general formula RO- [G] X in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably derived from glucose.
The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides. The subscript x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 10, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may not be a whole number, but may be a fraction, which can be analytically determined.
Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between 1.2 and 1.5.
The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl radical and / or an alkenyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known under the names INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
The particularly preferred nonionic surfactants which may be present as a co-surfactant in the compositions according to the invention are the fatty acid alkanolamides, the alkyl (oligo) glucosides and the amine oxides. Particularly preferred are the alkyl (oligo) glucosides which can, for example, be used in the agents according to the invention as a mixture with the ester b) i. The corresponding products are commercially available, for example, under the name of Lamesoft® PO 65 from BASF.
The nonionic cosurfactant (s) is / are used in the hair cleaning agents according to the invention (relative to their total weight) preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 2.50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.20 to 2.25% by weight and in particular from 0.30 to 2.00 % in weight.
In the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, an alkyl (oligo) glucoside is preferably used in the above-mentioned quantities.
In another preferred embodiment, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention may also contain, to adjust the pH but also reinforce the hair care properties, at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a preferred amount (for based on the weight of the whole agent) ranging from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 3.00% by weight and in particular from 0.40 to 2.00% by weight.
By "suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids" is preferably meant alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and, in particular, alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids of natural origin, such as those originating from fruit acids.
[0121] These include, for example, malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid and / or the tartaric acid.
In addition, the term “suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids” means dicarboxylic acids, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid.
Citric acid, lactic acid, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid are particularly preferred.
Particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (in particular as regards the shine of the hair and the sensory properties such as softness and suppleness) can be obtained without over-conditioning (oily hair, heavy) if the hair cleaning agents according to the invention do not contain, in addition to the active substances mentioned above,
- no other fatty phase constituent, in particular no silicone oil and / or mineral oil and / or fatty acid ester other than b) i. and
- no non-ionic alkoxylated emulsifier and / or polymeric thickener other than c).
In another preferred embodiment, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention are therefore substantially free of silicones and / or mineral oils and / or esters of fatty acids other than b) i.
By "substantially free (s)" is meant that the hair cleaning agents according to the invention preferably contain less than 0.25% by weight, more preferably less than 0.10% by weight. weights and in particular absolutely do not contain silicones and / or mineral oils and / or fatty acid esters other than b) i. (based on the total weight of the hair cleaning agent).
The amounts mentioned above apply equally to silicones and / or mineral oils freely added and / or to fatty acid esters other than b) i. than silicones and / or mineral oils and / or fatty acid esters other than b) i. present, where appropriate, as by-products in commercial products.
In another preferred embodiment, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention are therefore substantially free of alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers and / or thickeners other than c).
By “substantially free (s)” is meant the fact that the hair cleaning agents according to the invention preferably contain less than 0.10% by weight, more preferably less than 0.05 % by weight and in particular do not at all contain alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers and / or thickeners other than c) (relative to the total weight of the hair cleaning agent).
The quantities mentioned above apply both to alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers and / or to polymeric thickeners different from c) than to alkoxylated nonionic emulsifiers and / or to polymeric thickeners other than c), present, the where appropriate, as a by-product in commercial products.
In addition to the optional and essential components mentioned above, in order to further improve the care properties of the agents, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention may contain, in another preferred embodiment, at least one other active principle of hair conditioning. which can be chosen from the group of
- protein hydrolysates and or
- vitamins.
The term “suitable protein hydrolysates” means the mixtures of products which can be obtained by degradation by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins.
Protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal and / or marine origin can be used.
The protein hydrolysates of animal origin are for example hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk proteins, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylanâ (Cognis), Promoisâ (Interorgana), Collapuronâ (Cognis), Nutrilanâ (Cognis), Gelita-Solâ (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexeinâ (Inolex) and Kerasolâ ( Croda).
Preferred are protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates. Such products are for example available under the trade names Gluadinâ (Cognis), DiaMinâ (Diamalt), Lexeinâ (Inolex) and Croteinâ (Croda).
The hydrolysates of cationic proteins can also be used, the hydrolyzate of basic proteins can be of animal origin, for example derived from collagen, milk or keratin, of vegetable origin, for example derived from wheat , corn, rice, potato, soybeans or almonds, of marine origin, for example from fish or algae collagen, or from protein hydrolysates derived from biotechnology. Protein hydrolysates based on cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acid, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis generally results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preferred are hydrolysates of cationic proteins, the basic protein content of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. In addition, quaternary amino acids and their mixtures are understood as cationic protein hydrolysates. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro) halides -n-propyl) ammonium. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be transformed into derivatives. Classical examples of hydrolysates and derivatives of cationic proteins are the commercially available products known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Haïr Keratinpropyl Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acid Hydroxypropyl Aryline Lauryl / Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Hydroxypropylene Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypl trimonium H ydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimon ium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Quaternium, Quaternium Protein -79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) in the total weight of the hair cleaning agents is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight.
The term “appropriate vitamins” preferably means the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:
• Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin AJ as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). B-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. For example, may be mentioned as a component of vitamin A vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde as well as vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
• Vitamin B: belong among others to the group of vitamin B or to the vitamin B complex • vitamin Bi (thiamine) • vitamin B 2 (riboflavin) • vitamin B 3 . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (macinamide) are often presented under this name.
• vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. The panthenol derivatives which can be used [0139] [0140] [0141] [0142] [0143] [0144] [0145] are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also cationically derived panthenols. Mention may, for example, be made as representatives of these compounds: panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic derivatives of panthenol.
• vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
• Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).
• Vitamin F: generally understood as "vitamin F" essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
• Vitamin H: The term “vitamin H” designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazol-4-valeric, however commonly called “biotin”.
Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins from groups A, B, E and H. Very particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s) and / or vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the hair cleansing agents is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
It has been found that the hair cleaning agents according to the invention are also suitable for use as an anti-dandruff preparation.
The proportion by weight of the dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair cleaning agents may preferably range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.075 to 3% by weight.
The suitable anti-dandruff active ingredients can be chosen from Piroctone olamine, climbazol, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecylenic acid derivatives, extracts of burdock roots, extracts of poplar, nettle, nutshell, birch, willow bark, rosemary and / or arnica.
Preferred are climbazol, zinc pyrithione and Piroctone olamine. Zinc pyrithione is particularly preferred.
Other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives which may preferably be contained in the hair care and cleaning agents according to the invention are for example:
[0146] [0147] [0148] [0149] [0150] [0151]
- plant extracts,
- humectants,
- perfumes,
- UV filters,
- structuring agents such as maleic acid,
- dimethylisosorbide,
- cyclodextrins,
active ingredients improving the fibrous structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose and lactose,
- dyes for coloring the agent,
- active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin,
- complexing agents such as EDTA, NT A, b-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
- ceramides. The term "ceramides" means N-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amides) or the synthetic analogues of these lipids (called pseudoceramides),
- propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air,
- antioxidants,
- preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,
- other viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
By combining the active ingredients a) to d) in a cosmetic support - preferably in water - it is possible to obtain transparent hair care shampoos which perfectly clean the hair, are well tolerated by the skin, produce a lot of foam and impart improved care properties, in particular more shine, softness and volume.
The particularly preferred hair cleaning agents according to the invention are therefore transparent.
By "transparency" is meant within the meaning of the present invention the hair cleaning agents according to the invention having an NTU value less than or equal to 50, preferably less than or equal to 30, the NTU value being determined at 20 ° C.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair cleaning agents according to the invention, after storage for 12 weeks at 40 ° C., always have an NTU value of less than or equal to 50, preferably less than or equal to 30.
A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the hair cleaning agent according to the invention to improve the care properties provided to the hair, in particular to improve the shine of the hair and the sensation of touching the hair.
Regarding the other preferred embodiments of reuse according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject of the present invention, without however limiting it.
Examples:
A) The following hair cleaning compositions according to the invention were prepared (the quantities indicated are expressed in% by weight):
[0156] [Tables 1]
1 2 3 4 5 Anionic surfactant 4.00 - 25.00 5.00 - 20.00 5.50 to 17.50 6.00 to 15.00 6.50 - 12.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 amidoamineof formula(I) 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0157] [Tables2]
6 7 8 9 10 Anionic surfactant 4.00 - 25.00 5.00 - 20.00 5.50 to 17.50 6.00 to 15.00 6.50 - 12.50 Glyceryl oleate 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 amidoamineof formula(I) 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0158] [Tables3]
11 12 13 14 15 Anionic surfactant 4,00-25.00 5,00-20.00 5,50-17.50 6,00-15,00 6,50-12.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 - 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 Arm sic amidoprop yl Dimethylamine 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0159] [Tables4]
16 17 18 19 20 Anionic surfactant 4.00 - 25.00 5.00 - 20.00 5.50 to 17.50 6.00 to 15.00 6.50 - 12.50 Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant 0.10 to 5.00 0.50 - 5.00 1.00 to 5.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 5.00 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 amidoamineof formula(I) 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[Tables60]
21 22 23 24 25 Anionic surfactant 4.00 - 25.00 5.00 - 20.00 5.50 to 17.50 6.00 to 15.00 6.50 - 12.50 Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant 0.10 to 5.00 0.50 - 5.00 1.00 to 5.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 5.00 Nonionic surfactant 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.20 - 2.25 0.30 - 2.00 0.40 to 1.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 amidoamineof formula(I) 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0161] [Tablesô]
26 27 28 29 30 Anionic surfactant 4.00 - 25.00 5.00 - 20.00 5.50 to 17.50 6.00 to 15.00 6.50 - 12.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 amidoamineof formula(I) 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 polyol 0.50 - 10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0162] [Tables 7]
31 32 33 34 35 Anionic surfactant 4,00-25.00 5,00-20.00 5,50-17.50 6,00-15,00 6,50-12.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 Amidoamine of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Hydroxycarboxylic acid 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0163] [Tables 8]
36 37 38 39 40 Anionic surfactant 4,00-25.00 5,00-20.00 5,50-17.50 6,00-15,00 6,50-12.50 Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant 0.10 to 5.00 0.50 - 5.00 1.00 to 5.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 5.00 Nonionic surfactant 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.20 - 2.25 0.30 - 2.00 0.40 to 1.50 Ester b) i. 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Cationic guar polymer 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 Amidoamine of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 to 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 polyol 0,50-10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Hydroxycarboxylic acid 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100
[0164] [Tables 9]
41 42 43 44 45 Anionic surfactant 4,00-25.00 5,00-20.00 5,50-17.50 6,00-15,00 6,50-12.50 Cocamidopropyl betaine and / or cocoampho (di) acetate 0.10 - 5.00 0.50 - 5.00 1.00 to 5.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 5.00 Alkyl (oligo) glycoside 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 - 2.50 0.20 - 2.25 0.30 - 2.00 0.40 to 1.50 Glyceryl oleate 0.10 - 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Vegetable oil 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.80 0.03 - 0.60 0.04 - 0.40 0.05 - 0.20 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.01 - 1.00 0.02 - 0.90 0.03 - 0.75 0.04 - 0.60 0.05 - 0.50 Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine 0.01 to 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 - 1.00 Glycerol 0,50-10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 - 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Lactic acid and / or citric acid 0.10 - 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, if applicable, other adjuvants and additives Complements up to 100 Complements up to 100 Complements up to 100 Complements up to 100 Complements up to 100
B) Evaluation of the hair cleaning agents according to the invention and not in accordance with the invention [0166] [Tables 10]
46 47 48 Sodium laureth sulfate 9.5 9.0 9.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.5 3.0 3.5 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 0.90.9 Plantacare® 1818 6.0Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.2 0.5 Citric acid 0.6 1 0.6 Lactic acid 0.12 Sodium chloride 0.80.8 carbomer2.5Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar® 2 C 162) 0.15 Poly quaternium-10 0.15 Polyquaternium-40.5Cosmedia Guar® 3 C 2610.4Dow Corning® 4949 0.5Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0.5 1.0Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucoside0.5Bis- (Ethyl (isostearylimidazolme) Isosteara mide4.0Glutamic acid0.5Aspartic acid1.0panthenol0.5Cetiol® 5 C50.3Dicaprylyl Carbonate0.3PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.5 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 Coco Glucoside 0.7 Glyceryl oleate 0.60.5
Macadamia nut oil 0.050.05 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 Glycerol 3.0 phenoxyethanol0.4Water Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 Complement up to 100 PH 4.5 to 5.8 4.5 - 5.8 4.5 - 5.8 Viscosity [mPas] * 5,000-10,000 5,000-10,000 5,000-10,000 Satisfaction with the healing properties (average) ** 5.7 3.9 4.8 Satisfaction with hair shine (average) ** 5.4 3.9 4.9
[0167] Table [0168] Composition 46 is in accordance with the invention; compositions 47 and 48 are control compositions.
®1 INCI name: Coco Glucoside (approx. 52% AS), Aqua; BASL [0170] ®2 INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (87% AS), Aqua; Rhodia [0171] ®3 INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (93% AS), Aqua; BASL [0172] ®4 INCI name: Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12;
Dow Corning [0173] ®5 INCI name: Coco Caprylate; BASL [0174] * measured with a Brookfield DV 2+ device; 20 revolutions per minute; pin 5; at ° C.
** The value indicated corresponds to the average of the absolute opinions given on each composition by 20 respondents who, after using the products for 2 weeks, answered the questions "Are you satisfied with the properties caregivers of the product "And" Are you satisfied with the properties of the product in terms of gloss ”, Noting the compositions using a scale of 1 to 7 (1 = not at all satisfied; 7 = completely satisfied). The products have been packed in neutral packaging and coded accordingly.
From the results presented in Table 1, it can be seen that the compositions according to the invention give the hair better care properties than the compositions known in the state of the art:
- As oil stabilizers, composition 47 comprises, instead of a cationic guar polymer, polyquaternium-10 and ethoxylated emulsifiers;
- Composition 48 includes a variety of nutrients and cationic oils as well as a thickening polymer based on acrylic acid.
权利要求:
Claims (1)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
claims
Hair cleaning agent containing
at. at least one anionic surfactant,
b. a mixture of oils containing
i. at least one mono- and / or diester of glycerol and of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched carboxylic acid, having 18 to 30 carbon atoms, and ii. at least one vegetable oil,
vs. at least one cationic guar polymer and
d. at least one amidoamine of formula (I) [Chem 7] ^ 2
O [Claim 2] [Claim 3] [Claim 4] [Claim 5] in which
Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms,
R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or alkyl to C 4, and x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6.
Hair cleaning agent according to claim 1, containing, relative to the weight of the whole agent,
- 4.00 to 25.00% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant a),
- 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one mono- and / or diester b) i.,
- 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one vegetable oil b) ii.,
- 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one cationic guar polymer c),
- 0.01 to 2.00% by weight of at least one amidoamine d) of formula (I).
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the at least one mono- and / or diester b) i. is chosen from monoet / or diesters of glycerol and of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the at least one mono- and / or diester b) i. is chosen from the glycerol esters known under the name INCI Glyceryl Oleate.
Hair-cleaning agent according to one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the at least one amidoamine d) is chosen from the compounds of formula (I), in which [Claim 6] [Claim 7] [Claim 8] [ Claim 9] [Claim 10] [Claim 11] [Claim 12] [Claim 13] [Claim 14] [Claim 15]
Ri represents an alkenyl radical having from 20 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R 2 and R 3 represent methyl groups, and
- x represents the numbers 2, 3 or 4.
Hair-cleaning agent according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the at least one amidoamine d) is chosen from the amidoamines known under the name INCI Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, containing, relative to the weight of the whole agent,
- 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant and / or
- 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant. Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, containing, with respect to the weight of the whole of the agent, from 0.50 to 10.00% by weight of at least one polyol.
Hair cleaning agent according to claim 8, containing glycerol in a proportion by weight ranging from 1.00 to 6.00% by weight of the total weight of the hair cleaning agent.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, containing, relative to the weight of the whole agent, from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably a hydroxycarboxylic acid chosen from lactic acid and / or citric acid and / or glutamic acid and / or succinic acid. Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, which agent contains less than 0.10% by weight of non-ionic alkoxylated emulsifiers and / or c) various polymeric thickeners.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, which agent contains less than 0.25% by weight of silicones and / or mineral oils and / or esters of fatty acids other than b) i.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, which agent is transparent.
Hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, which agent contains, relative to the weight of the whole agent, at least 75% by weight of water, preferably at least 80% by weight of 'water. Cosmetic use of a hair cleaning agent according to one of claims 1 to 14 for improving the care properties of the hair, in particular for improving the shine and the feeling to the touch of the hair.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
DE102018202804A1|2019-08-29|
GB2572481A|2019-10-02|
GB201902336D0|2019-04-03|
GB2572481B|2020-09-30|
US10980726B2|2021-04-20|
US20190282479A1|2019-09-19|
FR3078254B1|2021-12-17|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

CN103284911A|2013-05-31|2013-09-11|吴克|Hair perming and dying shampoo|
US9066859B1|2013-12-09|2015-06-30|L'oreal|Viscoelastic cleansing gel|
WO2017115280A1|2015-12-30|2017-07-06|Mary Kay Inc.|Topical compositions|DE102018221973A1|2018-12-17|2020-06-18|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|HAIR CONDITIONING SPRAY TREATMENT|
US11103442B2|2019-02-15|2021-08-31|Sherrie Liddell|Moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising fatty acids, and uses thereof|
DE102020204995A1|2020-04-21|2021-10-21|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|HAIR COMPOSITIONS INCLUDING A MODIFIED POLYSACCHARIDE AND A PROTEIN HYDROLYZATE|
法律状态:
2020-02-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2021-02-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2021-04-23| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20210423 |
2022-02-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
DE102018202804.4|2018-02-23|
DE102018202804.4A|DE102018202804A1|2018-02-23|2018-02-23|Hair Care Shampoo|
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